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The Manaslu Expedition is one of the world’s best and most adventurous high-altitude treks where you see pristine landscape that is rarely visited. Mount Manaslu at 8,163 meters is the world’s 8th highest peak.The Manaslu expedition will take you to west-central Nepal in the Gorkha District. It is deep within the Manaslu conservation area.
It will be a wilderness climb as this route sees fewer tourists compared to the more popular Everest expedition and the Annapurna summit climb. But the scenic beauty is unmatched.
Mount Manaslu is a stunning peak in the high Himalayas of Nepal. The Mount Manaslu expedition will be your ultimate off-the-beaten-track journey where you will see rushing rivers, cascading waterfalls, picturesque villages, deep mountain valleys, green meadows, frozen lakes, natural caves, glaciers, and cross suspension bridges in the lower altitudes.
Higher up, you must cross a snowy terrain and ice bulges. You will also get stunning views of many 8,000 meter peaks, including Manaslu, the eighth highest mountain in the world.
The trail is never crowded as only 3,317 mountaineers have managed to summit the peak until the end of 2023. By comparison, 6,871 have climbed Mount Everest.
However, the Manaslu expedition is becoming popular as more and more and learning about the stunning scenic beauty of this climbing route and the thrill of standing on top of this 8,000m peak.
Typically, it takes around 30 days to summit this impressive peak. There are several routes but the most common is through the northeast face. It will be a guided expedition where an expert will guide you through moderately-angled snow slopes before you reach a steep snow arête just before the summit.
Other routes to the top include the southwest face, northwest spur, the west wall, and the west couloirs/south ridge.
Like other mountain expeditions, there will be several camps along the way. You will have to rest for acclimatization. In some places, you will have to follow fixed ropes to ascend.
Expect many challenges along the way, which is why you must always be careful in the Manaslu expedition. Always follow the instructions of your guide.
The standard climbing route for most expeditions is through the northeast face. The Mount Manaslu expedition will take between 5 and 6 weeks, depending on your fitness level and mountaineering experience.
There will be a few days for rest and acclimatization along the climbing route. Usually, there are four high camps in this expedition. Fixed ropes are installed in some places for your convenience.
The Manaslu expedition is challenging, requiring technical skills, which is why it is best suited for seasoned mountaineers having high-altitude climbing experience. The climb required exceptional physical fitness, advanced mountaineering skills, and prior experience.
You will need rigorous training and meticulous preparation. The challenge can be formidable even for the best climbers. The ascent is fairly demanding. And, of course, it will be freezing cold up there.
There will be steep ice and rock sections with fixed ropes. You will also have to maneuver through seracs and crevasses.
The Standard Climbing Route
Those who do the Manaslu Mountain trek reach Samagaun village at 3,530 meters on the seventh day and rest here for a day for acclimatizing.
Those trying to summit the peak will proceed towards the Manaslu Base Camp at 4,750 meters after rest. It will be a 5-6 hours hike towards the camp. You will cover a distance of 12 kilometers. You will spend your first night in tents at the camp.
The Manaslu Base Camp
The hike from Samagaun to the base camp is a steep climb, which usually takes a day. The effort is totally worth it because you will get gorgeous views of the peak and many other snow-capped mountains.
You will be surrounded by a glacial environment, sweeping valleys, and towering peaks. It is a place of serene beauty. You can also explore the nearby glaciers.
Most expeditions spend 3 nights in the base camp. The actual Manaslu expedition begins on the 14th day as you proceed towards the summit. Between day 14 and 29, you will gradually move up, adjusting plans as the weather becomes increasingly unpredictable.
There will be rotation rounds between various camps to acclimatize on this high altitude expedition.
There are 4 camps between the Manaslu base camp and the summit – at 5,700 meters, 6,400 meters, 6,800 meters, and 7,500 meters.
The climbing time between these camps is 4 to 5 hours. You must follow the expedition leaders as they guide you through the high altitude.
The angle will pick up as you move towards camp 4. You will have to cross short ice bulges with the help of fixed ropes and finally arrive at the campsite.
Mount Manaslu is 8,163 meters high.
The summit day is 15-17 hours long.
On the summit day, the major challenges will be a steep climb, high winds, crevasses, drop in the level of oxygen, and a drop in the temperature. The terrain will be tricky.
On day 30th, you will begin your trek back to Samagaon and then return eventually to Kathmandu. Back at Samagaon, you will enjoy your first night after a while in the warmth of a tea house.
The best time for the Manaslu expedition is in the spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). The weather will be generally stable in both these times. You will have mild temperature, low precipitation, and clear skies. It will also be comparatively dry and warm. There will be a low risk of avalanches.
However, there is a difference between these two seasons. In the spring, every day it will get warmer as it is just after the winter. There will be less threat of snow in the higher areas. The autumn season, on the other hand, is just the opposite.
The temperature will drop each day because of the advancing winter season. However, the lower temperature will make it more comfortable to walk in the lower altitude. You will also get more guides in the autumn as many of them are climbing Everest in the spring.
During your Manaslu expedition in autumn, the mountain ridge will have fresh snow. The Himalayan peak will be snow or ice covered. The weather will be cold with the nighttime temperature going down to -2 C.
The evening can be cloudy but it will be warmer during the day. Generally, the weather will be stable and the sky will be clear, which will give you awesome views of many Himalayan peaks.
You have to negotiate several icy slopes and an arête before reaching the summit. A knife-edge ridge cuts off the main peak, which is very challenging. There is also avalanche peril, which has stopped the progress of many climbers.
But the autumn season doesn’t heighten the risk as Manaslu is generously considered to be a difficult peak to summit. A guided expedition by an expert can take you up there in the autumn season.
After the summer and rainy season, the weather becomes very comfortable, which makes the Manaslu expedition in spring a very good idea. The temperature is decreasing gradually. The weather is warm and not too cold. You will begin to see the rocky peaks.
Rope fixing and ladder fixing also becomes easier in the climbing route. The weather conditions are perfect for climbing the Manaslu Mountain in the spring season. The chance of standing on top of the peak is also higher.
At this time, you will find the weather to be much more predictable. You will rarely be caught in heavy snowfall. At the lower altitude, the trail will be lush green with many flowers.
Spring is the season when trees recover their lost greenery. The temperature in the higher region will be colder, but it is not cold enough to cause altitude sickness.
Mount Manaslu is a difficult peak to climb and offers many challenges. You need high altitude climbing experience, the right mountaineering equipment, and a minimum level of fitness.
The challenges include icy slopes, an arête, a knife-edge ridge, snow, and the risk of avalanche. There is risk of AMS or Acute Mountain Sickness because of the high altitude and lower oxygen level.
The high altitude of Mount Manaslu is a major challenge. At 8,163 meters, it is the world’s 8th highest peak. Anything above 8,000 meters is known as the Death Zone because of the low level of oxygen, excessive snow, and other technical challenges that increases the difficulty level. You need to be physically fit and the mental strength to reach an 8,000 m peak.
The oxygen level goes down as the elevation increases. This can cause AMS or Acute Mountain Sickness. Drink plenty of water and acclimatize, so that your body can adjust to the gain. Also, make sure to take Diamox tablets.
Climb down if you face serious challenges. If you continue hiking, then it can even lead to HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema) where the lungs get affected, or HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema) which makes the brain swell.
Climbing Manaslu is difficult but it is not the most technical job as there are other peaks that require a higher level of technical skills. However, the difficulty level is still high. You should be able to negotiate a rocky terrain, cross snow and climb ice efficiently.
You need different climbing skills from basic rock climbing to advanced cramponing on ice and snow and also the right mountaineering equipment for this peak. You must also have good rope skills like rope ascending and rappelling.
There are fixed ropes lines for support between base camp and camp 4 with a few gaps. On the climbing route, you will mostly find snowy and ice surfaces. There is an exposed section above 6,600 meters before the summit.
Expect long durations of climbing as you have to cross steep vertical sections. You will also have to cross crevasses.
The cost of your Manaslu expedition will vary depending on various factors. It can be anything between $10,000 and $15,000 and even more. The cost goes towards hiring guides, porters, getting the permits, equipment, booking the tea houses, and logistics. Here is a cost breakdown of this high altitude expedition :
Permit – Between $1,700 and $1,800
Expedition – Between $7,000 and $15,000
Equipment – Between $3,000 and $5,000
Insurance – Between $300 and $800
Travel – Between $1,300 and $2,500
Accommodation, food – Between $500 and $1,000
Tipping – Between $300 and $1,000
Miscellaneous – Between $200 and $500
There are many factors that will determine your Manaslu expedition cost. For example, the group size of your guided expedition. If you are a large group, then the per-person cost will be lower.
The tea houses you select and the level of comfort you expect on the lower altitude will also impact the cost. Even the kind of transportation you select to and from your walking point will be a factor. Public transport will naturally cost less.
The cost of permit also varies. For instance, for the MRAP permit between September and November, it is $70 per person for the first week and then $10 for each day after this.
However, for December to August, it is lower at $50 for the first week per person. After this, it is $7 for each day. Naturally, the number of days you take to complete the expedition will also impact the overall cost.
The cost of a licensed guide is $25-35 for each day. Expedition leaders with more experience will charge more. It will also cost you more if you hire several porters to ensure that you can climb without carrying a lot of mountaineering equipment and supplies.
An expedition to this Himalayan peak is not cheap so you may be tempted to cut costs in some areas to save money. But remember, it is worth it to spend some more money to ensure safety and convenience. Always allocate adequate funds to get the best guides, porters, and expedition leaders.
Also, don’t compromise on your mountaineering gear. Ensure you get the facilities available on the high camps. You will then be more comfortable, which will help you climb better on the next day. There is no way to save money on permits as the prices are fixed.
You can save money in two ways. First, you can select cheaper transportation before and after the expedition. Second, you can do the climbing in a large group instead of doing it solo with a guide.
A large group size will make it cheaper for everyone as the cost of the porters and the guides will be divided between all the climbers.
Here’s your typical Manaslu expedition itinerary –
Day 1 – Drive from Kathmandu to Dharapani
Day 2 – Trek to Tilje
Day 3 – Trek to Bhimthang
Day 4 – Acclimatization day at Bhimthang
Day 5 – Bhimthang to Samdo
Day 6 – Samdo to Samagaon
Day 7 – Acclimatization day at Samagaon
Day 8 – Samagaon to Manaslu Base Camp
Days 9-12 – Rest at Manaslu Base Camp
Days 10-25 – Expedition (travel between camps and summit)
Day 26 - Trek back to Samagaon
Day 27 – Samagaon to Samdo
Day 28 – Samdo to Bhimthang
Day 29 – Bimthan to Tilje
Day 30 – Tilje to Kathmandu
You can also fly back from Samagaon to Arkhet on a helicopter and then drive to Kathmandu if you want. This will save you a few days but it will increase the cost.
The Mt Manaslu expedition will take around 30 days with a few days for acclimatization. It may take longer for those with a lower fitness level and mountaineering experience.
The first rest day on your Manaslu expedition itinerary will be at Bhimthang at 3,725 meters. Explore this beautiful village and do some short treks to acclimatize your body with the altitude.
Explore the surroundings of this beautiful location and spend as much time outdoors as possible to acclimatize better. We spend the night at the same lodge in Bhimthang. The second day of rest will be after 3 days at Samagaon at an altitude of at 3,540 meters.
It is at a lower altitude than Bhimthang but to reach Samagaon you have to cross the high Larkya La Pass, which is quite strenuous on the body. You will get gorgeous views of Manaslu, Himal, Gyaji Kung, Pawar Peak, Larke Peak, Kang Garu, Peak 29, Annapurna II, and others.
From Samagaon you will reach the Manaslu base camp where it is essential to rest for a few more days and prepare for the next phase of the expedition and the eventual summit day later.
The Manaslu expedition itinerary can be divided into three stages –
1. Stage 1 – Reaching Manaslu Base Camp
2. Stage 2 – High camps and the summit day
3. Stage 3 – Return back to Kathmandu
By the 9th day, you should reach the base camp after two acclimatization days at Bhimthang and Samagaon. You will meet your high-altitude Sherpa here. The base camp has your personal tent, a common area, dining tent, a toilet tent, and a shower tent.
There are 4 more camps before the summit.
Camp 1 – 5,700 meters
Camp 2 – 6,400 meters
Camp 3 – 6,800 meters
Camp 4 – 7,500 meters
Camp 1 to Camp 2 is a technical climb as you have to cross an icefall. Camp 2 is located on a relatively flat area. Camp 2 to 3 is a short climb but it is located in a windy area. It usually takes around 3 hours. There are no ladder crossings. But, you will find a few crevasses that you must jump.
Camp 3 to 4 is a long day of climbing where you reach close to the Death Zone. You have to cross a zone of steep snow with a slope of 50-55 degrees. This is a dangerous section. Follow your expedition leaders to stay safe. Acclimatization is necessary at each step.
On the summit day, you will start climbing around 1 in the night and if everything goes well you should be at the top around 7-8 AM. There is an exposed ridge and a false summit just before the actual peak. On the return, it will take around 4 hours to reach camp 4.
Guides and porters are essential for climbing Manaslu. The peak is located in the Manaslu Conservation Area, which is a restricted area. It is mandatory to have a guide in the expedition. Porters, on the other hand, will make your job easier by carrying supplies, equipment, and helping in setting up the camps.
A guided expedition is crucial to successfully summit the peak. A guide has extensive experience of the terrain, geography, and can guide you on how to overcome the many challenges.
The guide and expedition leaders will show you how to navigate through the snow, cross the crevasses, and safely reach the high camps. They will also set up the fixed ropes for your convenience.
Besides, guides can also help in case of an emergency like breathing problems and acute mountain sickness. They will know what to do if an evacuation becomes necessary.
You will also need several porters for the Manaslu expedition. They will carry heavy loads, including supplies, food, and mountaineering equipment. It will help you immensely if you can just focus on climbing and don’t have to carry the load.
Porters can also help with setting up the high camps. Make sure you have adequate number of porters depending on your group size.
Nepal is blessed with many 8,000 meter peaks like Everest, Annapurna, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Lhotse, and others. How does the Mt Manaslu expedition compare with the others?
Both Manaslu and Everest are 8000m peaks. Climbing both the peaks will be an awesome experience but there are some differences between the two.
Everest has an elevation of 8,849 meters, while Mount Manaslu is an 8,163 meter peak. The higher altitude of Everest means you will be higher up in the Death Zone with even less oxygen.
This is why many feel that it is better to climb Manaslu before the Everest expedition to find out how your body will react in such a high altitude region.
The world’s highest mountain and Manaslu both offer unique challenges. In Manaslu, for example, you should be able to reach Camp 1 easily, whereas in Everest, you must cross the treacherous Khumbu Icefall.
From Camp 1 to Camp 4 it is fairly easy in Everest. But above Camp 4, you must cross the Hillary Step, which can be very challenging for many mountaineers.
In Manaslu, the climb from Camp 1 to 4 is more challenging compared to Everest. However, the ascent to the summit is easier by comparison.
Cho Oyu is an 8,188 meter peak in eastern Nepal. Both Cho Oyu and Manaslu offers different difficulty levels and both require physical fitness and the use of advanced mountaineering equipment
Many climbers prefer Cho Oyu as it is less avalanche prone. In Manaslu, there are many sections of steep climbing through hazardous terrain. In Cho Oyu, there is only one semi-vertical section that needs technical climbing.
The weather is also more predictable in Cho Oyu. There are only two advanced camps over base camp in Cho Oyu. On the eight highest peak, Manaslu, on the other hand, there are four camps.
However, the easier route for Cho Oyu is from the Nepal side, which can be a problem because of visa issues.
Summiting Mount Manaslu is not an easy job. It requires a minimum level of physical and mental health, the right kind of preparation, altitude acclimatization, team work, and good mountaineering equipment.
Here is a list of mountaineering equipment and things you will need for the Manaslu expedition.
Ice axe
Crampons
Accessory cord
Carabiner System
Fixed ropes
Alpine climbing harness
Belay device
Trekking poles
Ascender
Insulated boots
Neck gaiters
Sunglasses
Warm clothing
Sun hat
Backpack
Headlamp
Sunscreen
Sleeping bag
Climbers need to be both physically and mentally fit for the high altitude Manaslu expedition. Engage in regular strength and cardio exercises, such as running, hiking, weightlifting, and cycling.
This will build your strength, stamina, and endurance, which will help you overcome the difficulty level. Also, do altitude training before your Mt. Manaslu expedition. Increase the elevation of your workouts gradually over weeks and months. This will allow your body to adapt to the lower oxygen level in the higher areas.
You will also have to be mentally strong. Mental endurance will give you the strength to keep going, irrespective of the challenges. It will help you handle the stress efficiently.
With the right preparation and help, you should be able to successfully complete the Manaslu expedition and summit this peak. You are sure to feel incredible on the summit day.
There will also be a sense of achievement even when you reach the Manaslu base camp. Make sure that the Manaslu expedition itinerary is through the northeast face as this is the easier route.
The Manaslu expedition cost can be stiff for some climbers but there are ways to save money. It is totally worth it because the Mt Manaslu expedition is a once in a lifetime experience.
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